Lapel Styles
The three primary suit lapel types are notch, peak, and shawl. Each creates a distinct visual effect and carries different levels of formality.
The lapel is the folded flap of fabric on each side of a suit jacket's front opening, extending from the collar down to the button stance. It is one of the most prominent design elements of any jacket and has an outsized impact on the garment's character, formality, and visual proportion. The three fundamental lapel styles, notch, peak, and shawl, each have distinct histories, construction methods, and appropriate contexts. Lapel width, which ranges from narrow (2 to 2.5 inches) to wide (4 to 4.5 inches), further modifies the visual effect and should be proportioned to the wearer's frame and the prevailing aesthetic.
Notch Lapel
The notch lapel, also called a step lapel, is the most common style and the default for single-breasted business suits. It is formed by a visible notch or V-shaped cutout where the lapel meets the collar. The angle and depth of this notch can vary. A classic notch sits at roughly 75 to 90 degrees. A "fish mouth" notch is wider and more pronounced, a detail associated with Italian tailoring from the 1960s and 1970s. The notch lapel is versatile and appropriate for business, social, and casual settings. It works equally well on two-button and three-button jackets and is the safest choice for a first suit.
Peak Lapel
The peak lapel features a pointed edge that angles upward toward the shoulder, creating a more dramatic, assertive silhouette. This upward point broadens the visual impression of the chest and shoulders, making peak lapels particularly flattering on slimmer builds. Peak lapels are the standard on double-breasted jackets and are also used on formal single-breasted suits, tuxedos, and morning coats. In construction, a peak lapel is more complex to cut and sew than a notch lapel, which contributes to its association with higher-end tailoring. A well-made peak lapel requires precise bridle stitching to maintain the upward angle and prevent the points from drooping over time.
Shawl Lapel
The shawl lapel is a continuous, rounded lapel with no notch or peak, flowing in a smooth curve from the collar to the button. It is the most formal lapel style and is primarily associated with dinner jackets (tuxedos) and smoking jackets. The shawl lapel creates a clean, elegant line that draws the eye vertically. It is rarely used on business suits, and wearing a shawl lapel jacket in a business context would be unusual. In construction, the shawl lapel is cut as a single piece of fabric that includes both the collar and lapel, rather than joining two separate pieces. Shawl lapels are sometimes finished with a contrasting facing, such as satin or grosgrain, on formal evening wear.
Lapel Width and Proportion
Lapel width should be proportioned to the wearer's body and the width of the necktie. A general guideline is that the lapel at its widest point should roughly match the tie width, and both should be proportionate to the wearer's frame. A broad-shouldered man can carry a wider lapel (3.5 to 4 inches), while a narrower build looks better with a medium width (3 to 3.25 inches). Extremes in either direction tend to look dated quickly: the very narrow lapels of the early 2010s already appear of their era, while the very wide lapels of the 1970s are similarly time-stamped. A lapel width between 3 and 3.5 inches is considered timeless.
Pro Tip
When recommending lapel styles to clients, consider the gorge line height as well. A higher gorge with a moderate peak lapel creates a modern, elongating effect. A lower gorge with a wider notch feels more classic and relaxed. These details work together to define the jacket's personality.
How Sartorly Helps
With Sartorly, tailors can show clients the visual difference between notch, peak, and shawl lapels on their own image. This eliminates guesswork and allows clients to compare options side by side before making a commitment.
Related Terms
Suit Anatomy
The structural components of a suit, from the canvas interlining and shoulder construction to the lapels, pockets, vents, and lining that together define the garment's fit and character.
Gorge Line
The seam where the collar meets the lapel on a suit jacket. Its height and angle influence visual proportions, modernity of silhouette, and overall jacket character.
Double-Breasted
A jacket front with overlapping panels and two parallel columns of buttons, creating a broader, more structured silhouette than the single-breasted alternative.
Tuxedo vs Suit
A tuxedo (dinner suit) features satin-faced lapels, a satin stripe on the trousers, and specific accessories, making it formal evening wear. A suit uses the same fabric throughout and is appropriate for business and social occasions.
Common Questions About Lapel Styles
The shawl lapel is the most formal, followed by the peak lapel, then the notch lapel. However, context matters: a well-made notch lapel suit in a dark worsted wool is more formal than a casual peak lapel jacket in linen. Lapel style is one element of formality, not the only one.
Absolutely. Peak lapels on a single-breasted jacket create a striking, fashion-forward look that adds visual power without the formality of a double-breasted closure. It is a popular choice for wedding suits and evening events, and is increasingly common in business settings as well.
As of the mid-2020s, the trend has moved away from the very slim lapels of the early 2010s toward a more classic width of 3 to 3.5 inches. This width is proportionate on most body types and unlikely to date quickly. When in doubt, choose a moderate width that flatters your frame rather than chasing current trends.