Menswear Glossary
The language of custom tailoring, explained. From construction techniques to style details, understand every term that defines a well-made suit.
Bespoke
A garment created entirely from scratch for a specific individual, involving a unique pattern, multiple fittings, and hand-finished construction.
Bespoke vs Made-to-Measure
Bespoke creates a garment from an entirely new pattern; made-to-measure adjusts a pre-existing pattern. The differences extend to process, construction, cost, and fit precision.
Button Stance
The vertical position of the top fastening button on a suit jacket, which determines where the jacket closes and significantly affects the silhouette and visual proportions.
Canvas Construction
The internal structure of a suit jacket, ranging from full canvas (hand-shaped horsehair interlining) to fused (glued interfacing). The canvas determines drape, longevity, and how the suit molds to the body.
Collar Styles
The collar is the most visible part of a dress shirt and frames the face and neckline. Major styles include point, spread, cutaway, button-down, and club, each pairing differently with suit lapels and tie knots.
Double-Breasted
A jacket front with overlapping panels and two parallel columns of buttons, creating a broader, more structured silhouette than the single-breasted alternative.
Gorge Line
The seam where the collar meets the lapel on a suit jacket. Its height and angle influence visual proportions, modernity of silhouette, and overall jacket character.
Lapel Styles
The three primary suit lapel types are notch, peak, and shawl. Each creates a distinct visual effect and carries different levels of formality.
Made-to-Measure
A garment produced by adjusting a pre-existing pattern to an individual's measurements, offering a personalized fit without the full bespoke process.
Morning Suit
The most formal daytime dress code for men, consisting of a morning coat (cutaway front), waistcoat, and striped trousers. Traditionally worn at weddings, Royal Ascot, and formal daytime ceremonies.
Pocket Styles
Suit jacket pockets come in several styles including flap, welt (jetted), patch, and ticket. Each carries different levels of formality and suits different jacket types.
Shoulder Types
The shoulder construction of a suit jacket defines its silhouette and character. Major types include natural, roped, pagoda, and soft (spalla camicia), each associated with different tailoring traditions.
Suit Alterations
Modifications made to a finished suit to improve fit. Alterations range from simple (hemming trousers) to complex (adjusting shoulders), and understanding what is possible helps set realistic client expectations.
Suit Anatomy
The structural components of a suit, from the canvas interlining and shoulder construction to the lapels, pockets, vents, and lining that together define the garment's fit and character.
Suit Fit Guide
A comprehensive guide to how a suit jacket and trousers should fit, covering shoulders, chest, waist, length, sleeves, and trousers. Proper fit is the single most important factor in how a suit looks.
Suit Lining
The interior fabric layer of a suit jacket that protects the construction, allows the jacket to slide on and off easily, and adds a hidden design element. Options include full, half, quarter, and unlined.
Suit Vents
Vertical slits at the back of a suit jacket that allow ease of movement. Options include single center vent, double side vents, and no vent, each with distinct functional and aesthetic characteristics.
Super Numbers
A grading system for worsted wool that measures fiber fineness in microns. Higher Super numbers (100s, 120s, 150s) indicate finer fibers, softer hand feel, and greater luxury, but also increased fragility.
Trouser Break
The fold or crease in trouser fabric where the hem meets the top of the shoe. Options range from full break (deep fold) to no break (clean, cropped look), each affecting formality and proportions.
Tuxedo vs Suit
A tuxedo (dinner suit) features satin-faced lapels, a satin stripe on the trousers, and specific accessories, making it formal evening wear. A suit uses the same fabric throughout and is appropriate for business and social occasions.
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