Pocket Styles
Suit jacket pockets come in several styles including flap, welt (jetted), patch, and ticket. Each carries different levels of formality and suits different jacket types.
The pockets on a suit jacket serve both functional and aesthetic purposes. Their style, placement, and angle are important design elements that contribute to the jacket's overall character and formality. The four main pocket styles are flap pockets, welt pockets (also called jetted or besom pockets), patch pockets, and ticket pockets. Each has a specific origin, formality level, and set of jackets on which it is traditionally used. Pocket placement also matters: straight pockets are more formal and traditional, while angled (hacking) pockets have a sporty origin and create a more dynamic visual line.
Flap Pockets
Flap pockets are the most common style on business suits. They feature a rectangular flap of fabric that covers the pocket opening, concealing the welt beneath. The flap serves a practical purpose (keeping debris out of the pocket) and adds a visual horizontal line across the hip area. Flap pockets are appropriate for all but the most formal occasions. A useful feature of flap pockets is that the flap can be tucked into the pocket to create the appearance of a clean welt pocket, offering two looks in one. Flap pockets can be straight (horizontal) or slightly angled (hacking), with the angle typically sloping downward toward the center back of the jacket.
Welt Pockets (Jetted Pockets)
Welt pockets, also called jetted or besom pockets, are the most formal pocket style. They consist of a simple slit in the jacket fabric, finished with one or two narrow welts (strips of fabric) that form the pocket edges. Without a flap or patch, the welt pocket creates the cleanest, most minimal visual line. Welt pockets are standard on tuxedos and dinner jackets, where any additional visual detail would disrupt the sleek formal aesthetic. They are also used on some high-end business suits for a refined, understated look. The breast pocket on any suit jacket is almost always a welt pocket, regardless of the lower pocket style.
Patch Pockets
Patch pockets are constructed by sewing a piece of fabric directly onto the outside of the jacket. They are the most casual pocket style, associated with sport coats, blazers, and unstructured jackets rather than formal suits. Patch pockets are common on linen, cotton, and tweed jackets, where they complement the relaxed fabric character. They can be finished with squared or rounded corners, and may include a flap for a hybrid look. In Italian tailoring, soft patch pockets (sometimes with a gentle pleat or bellows construction) are a hallmark of the casual elegance that defines Neapolitan sportswear. Using patch pockets on a worsted business suit would be unusual and overly casual.
Ticket Pocket and Special Details
The ticket pocket is a small additional pocket positioned above the right hip pocket. Originally designed for holding a train or theater ticket, it is now a purely decorative detail that adds a touch of bespoke character to a jacket. Ticket pockets are more common on British-style suits and sport coats. Other pocket details include: bellows pockets (expandable patch pockets with a fold or pleat, found on safari jackets and some country sport coats), hand-warmer pockets (vertical slits at the sides of a jacket, common on overcoats), and cash pockets (small internal pockets inside the lower hip pockets). Each detail adds both function and visual interest.
Pro Tip
Pocket placement affects visual proportions. Pockets set slightly higher than standard will shorten the jacket's visual length, while lower placement elongates it. For shorter clients, a marginally higher pocket position can improve proportions without being noticeable.
How Sartorly Helps
Sartorly's detail-level visualization lets clients compare pocket styles on their own image, seeing exactly how flap, welt, and patch pockets change the character of a jacket. This visual comparison makes it easy to choose the right pocket for the right context.
Related Terms
Suit Anatomy
The structural components of a suit, from the canvas interlining and shoulder construction to the lapels, pockets, vents, and lining that together define the garment's fit and character.
Lapel Styles
The three primary suit lapel types are notch, peak, and shawl. Each creates a distinct visual effect and carries different levels of formality.
Tuxedo vs Suit
A tuxedo (dinner suit) features satin-faced lapels, a satin stripe on the trousers, and specific accessories, making it formal evening wear. A suit uses the same fabric throughout and is appropriate for business and social occasions.
Suit Fit Guide
A comprehensive guide to how a suit jacket and trousers should fit, covering shoulders, chest, waist, length, sleeves, and trousers. Proper fit is the single most important factor in how a suit looks.
Common Questions About Pocket Styles
Flap pockets are the most versatile because they work for business, social, and semi-formal occasions. The ability to tuck the flap in for a cleaner look gives you additional flexibility. For a suit that needs to cover the widest range of situations, flap pockets are the standard choice.
A ticket pocket adds a distinctive bespoke detail to a jacket. It works best on British-influenced suits, sport coats, and tweed jackets. On a minimalist, modern suit, it may feel like an unnecessary addition. Consider the overall aesthetic of the jacket before adding one.
A hacking pocket is a flap pocket set at a slight diagonal angle, sloping downward toward the back of the jacket. The name comes from horse riding ("hacking"), where the angled opening made it easier to reach into the pocket while mounted. It is a sporty detail associated with British country and equestrian styling.